71. ROBE EN SOIE VIOLET BRODÉE, CHENYI Fin du XIXe siècle AN EMBROIDERED PURPLE SATIN MANCHU WOMAN'S INFORMAL ROBE, CHANGYI Late 19th century Worked in an even satin stitch on the front and back panels with sprigs of chrysanthemum flowers interspersed with stylised shou medallions in couched gold-wrapped thread against a bright purple ground, within borders of pale turquoise decorated with flowers, and black decorated in satin stitch with chrysanthemum sprigs and stylised shou medallions repeated on the collar, and edged with a band of gold and black ice crackle, the pattern repeated on the cream-coloured satin cuffs. 140cm long x 135cm wide (55 1/8in long x 53 1/8in wide) THE PROPERTY OF A LADY 女士藏品 十九世紀晚期　紫地緞綉折枝花卉團壽紋常服袍 氅衣 Provenance: Acquired by the family in China between 1895 and 1922, and thence by descent 來源: 1895年至1922年閒蒐集於中國，由後人保存迄今 The shimmering shou medallions, worked in luxurious gold-wrapped thread on this fine robe, provide a striking contrast to the brilliant purple silk ground. Together with the colourful chrysanthemum sprays, one of the 'Four Gentleman of flowers', they convey messages of longevity and wealth. The chrysanthemum flowers indicate that this robe was to be worn in the autumn. The narrow sleeves and wide borders are representative of the high-fashion style favoured by Manchu women of noble birth associated with the court of the Dowager Empress Cixi. Compare with a robe of the same colour also featuring stylised auspicious shou characters woven in gold together with peonies scattered across a purple ground in the collection of the Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York (acc.no.46.187.6). See also a robe of striking purple satin, from the collection of Linda Wrigglesworth, which was sold Christie's New York, 19 March 2008, lot 93, and lot 98 for a purple silk gauze robe similarly embroidered with chrysanthemum sprigs.