BEAUTIFUL WOMAN'S SHORT COAT (PIRPIRI) Ioannina region, Epirus, Greece or Albania, late 19th-early 20th century Finely embroidered with gold thread on petroleum blue felt, the sides and back richly decorated with large palmettes and plant motifs, the borders applied with a large ribbon, lined with a red printed cotton, wear, small losses. Height 113 cm; Width: 27 cm (at the shoulder) A Finely Embroidered Coat (PirPiri), Probably Ioannina, Greece or Albania, Late 19th or Early 20th century This elaborately and luxuriously decorated sleeveless coat is typical of the costumes worn by the women of Ioannina, the capital of the region of Epirus. The region remained under Ottoman control until 1913, and these textiles evoke a blend of Ottoman and Greek influences. Worn by women from the Muslim and Christian communities of the Balkans, with certain local variations, these pirpiris are made from blue, red or black felt and richly embroidered by itinerant craftsmen known as Terzides. This technique, known as terzidiko, is characterised by the use of gold threads sewn onto the felt with silk threads whose stitches are concealed. The motifs of palmettes, leaves and rosettes are drawn on a sheet applied to the coat and then removed once the embroidery is complete. An example of black felt is in the Bénaki Museum, Athens (EE 1637). These festive and ceremonial coats were passed down from mother to daughter, worn over a silk shirt, trousers, a brocade dress and embroidered shoes.