WEDDING TIARA (TAJ) Northern Morocco, late 18th or 19th century Composed of five articulated gold plates decorated with polychrome enamel and set with diamonds, emeralds and semi-precious stones, three plates adorned with cabochons, the centre topped with a crescent and star motif, the tiara surrounded by a net of natural pearls, two green silk ties attached to the rings of the tiara, the plates sewn onto a triangular cotton headdress formerly decorated with gold thread, coloured pompoms, the reverse lined with blue silk. Size: 21 x 32.5 cm Origin : Former collection of a Moroccan Jewish family A Rare Moroccan Gold Enamelled Wedding Headdress (Taj), Northern Morocco, Late 18th or 19th century This important tiara (taj in Arabic) is probably the work of Moroccan Jewish goldsmiths. Indeed, jewellery-making in Morocco seems to have been the preserve of the Jewish community alone, producing jewellery for both Jewish and Muslim customers (Jewellery of a Jewish Woman in Morocco, Musée d'art et d'histoire du judaïsme, Paris, published online on 6/05/2020). The use of gold and precious stones (diamonds, emeralds, rubies and pearls) suggests that it came from the cities of northern Morocco, perhaps Fez, Tangiers or Tetouan, unlike the jewellery from the south of the country where silver and enamel predominate. This tiara was probably intended for a Jewish bride for her wedding, although this type of tiara was also worn by Muslim women. It was complemented by earrings, a necklace, a pendant and fibulae to form an ensemble that marked social status within the community. An example of a taj attributed to Fez and dating from the 18th or 19th century is kept at the Musée d'art et d'histoire du Judaïsme in Paris (Inv. D.2006.02.001). Another, decorated with cabochons and enamels, dates from the late 18th century and is in the Islamic Arts Museum Malaysia, Kuala Lumpur (2012.10.6 and Sotheby's, London, 25 April 2012, no. 650). A later example of a taj, dated circa 1900, was sold at Christie's, London, 17 April 2007, no. 347. See also Vivian B. Mann, Morocco, Jews and Art in a Muslim Land, 2000, no.52, p.152.