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Lot no. 138
MALLARMÉ Stéphane. The latest fashion. Gazette du monde et de la famille. Paris, Imp. Richard-Berthier; Imp. Jules Le Clère (for issues 7 and 8), 6 September - 20 December 1874; 8 issues bound in an in-folio volume (400 x 297 mm), each of 8 pp. and 4 pp. of cover on blue paper, entirely mounted on tabs, bradel of light blue silk with vertical white stripes, brocaded with coloured flowers, morocco title-piece, illustrated blue covers, slipcase. Complete first edition of a very rare publication, edited and written almost exclusively by the young Stéphane Mallarmé, still unknown in the world of letters. Presumed copy of Stéphane Mallarmé, corrected in red ink. Charles Wendelen had entrusted the writing of this fortnightly review to Mallarmé who, slipping into the shoes of a fashion columnist, signed all the articles under various pseudonyms: Marguerite de Ponty, Miss Satin, Ix, Le Chef de bouche de chez Brébant, Une dame créole, Olympe Négresse, Zizy bonne mulâtre de Surate. Each issue contained seven chapters: La Mode - Gazette de la Fashion - Chronique de Paris - Le Carnet d'Or - Gazette et Programme de la Quinzaine - Correspondence with subscribers - Advice on education. Only rare literary contributions were entrusted to a few Parnassian friends: Daudet, Banville, Coppée, Sully-Prudhomme, etc. The work is decorated with wood-engraved fashion figures by E. Pequeur showing important vertugadin dresses and 6 out-of-text colour lithographs by Albert, enhanced with watercolours; the covers are designed by Edmond Morin. The watercolour prints appeared in only a few luxury copies and could be ordered separately. With extreme attention to typography and research into page layout, Mallarmé published original and witty articles on ballroom gowns, reviews of shows, recipes for cold syrup, advice on going to the seaside or creating garden baskets? There is no description, advice or recipe that does not end in a poem, the better to be engraved in memory with an indelible and clear diamond" (Henry Charpentier, La Dernière Mode de Stéphane Mallarmé). This unusual attempt at fashion publishing did not last. After eight issues, the director, Wendelen, called a halt to the venture and a little later handed the magazine over to another editor. In a letter to Paul Verlaine (16 November 1885), Mallarmé confided that "the eight or ten issues that have appeared still serve, when I strip them of their dust, to keep me dreaming for a long time". The volume contains all 8 issues published under Mallarmé's editorship, with their covers, and - bound at the end - a number of rare items: the prospectus, the subscription form, and the late notice for the 6th issue. Presumed copy by Mallarmé, with 72 autograph corrections in red on issues II, III, VI and VII. The Bibliothèque littéraire Jacques Doucet holds issues I and VIII corrected in the same way by Mallarmé. The volume contains the proofs of Henry Charpentier's article on "La Dernière Mode de Stéphane Mallarmé" (4 pp., with a few corrections in black ink) and 2 typescript pages, one signed. "Original and complete copies of La Dernière Mode are today of the utmost rarity" (Velours et guipure: Mallarmé et La Dernière Mode). We have not found another example. This title was missing from the major Mallarmé collections that have recently appeared on the market (Fischer, C.V.L., Librairie Vrain 2025, etc.). Our copy appeared in the Mallarmé exhibition, Musée d'Orsay, 1998, catalogue no. 145; Velours et guipure: Mallarmé et La dernière mode. Exhibition catalogue of the Musée Stéphane Mallarmé, 2003 (the engravings reproduced on pp. 11-25 are from this copy) - RHODES. Mallarmé, La Dernière mode, New York, French studies, 1933. Delightful silk binding, an allusion to Mallarmé's main pseudonym in the magazine: Miss Satin. Some restorations in the margins.
See original version (French)
Pictures credits: Contact organization
Books, Manuscripts and Comic books
About the sale
Live
Verse and Prose
75006 Paris - France
10/15/2025
Offered by ALDE
01 45 49 09 24

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