WHYMPER (Edward). Scrambles amongst the Alps in the years 1860-69. London, John Murray, 1871. In-8°, publisher's green cloth binding, spine decorated with gilt title (publisher's boards). First edition of the account of the famous mountaineer's ascents. One of 20 copies printed sheet by sheet and plate by plate in the very first edition, certified by a handwritten note signed by the author and dated 26 June 1871, inserted between the false title and the title. Decorated with 20 hors-texte plates (including the frontispiece), a folding geological section and five folding maps at the end of the volume, and 90 vignettes in the text by the author. The first edition (with no edition number and a preface dated May 1871) was printed by R. Clack in Edinburgh in 1245 copies and has become rare. Edward Whymper (London 1840 - Chamonix 1911) is probably the best-known mountaineer of all time. The son of a painter and engraver, he apprenticed as a draughtsman and engraver in his father's studio. He attended Albert Smith's diorama of his ascent of Mont Blanc at the Egyptian Hall and was fascinated by the spectacle. He made his first trip to the Alps in 1860, working for the publisher Longman to illustrate the second series of Peaks, passes and glaciers. It was during this first trip that he had the revelation of the Matterhorn. Although he owes his fame mainly to the tragic story of the conquest of this famous peak, it has to be said that he accomplished many other Alpine feats, making the first ascents of numerous great summits: the Barre des Écrins, the Aiguille Verte, the Grandes Jorasses (summit O.), Mont-Dolent, the Aiguille d'Argentière, the Grand Cornier and, in the Andes of Ecuador, the Chimborazo; this list, which is not exhaustive, gives an idea of Whymper's qualities as a mountaineer. The tragedy of the Matterhorn had a profound effect on him; a rather shady character, he led a solitary life, despite a failed late marriage. This did not prevent him from remaining faithful to the Alps, particularly Zermatt and Chamonix, which he described in two well-documented and illustrated guidebooks. He died in his hotel room in Chamonix and is buried in the local cemetery. Perret, 4557 - Neate W65 - Regards sur les Alpes 88 - ACL p. 336 - CAS p. 415 - Coolidge 210