Lot no. 479
SILK CLUTCH BAG WITH ROCK CRYSTAL, DIAMOND, BLACK ENAMEL, SILVER AND WHITE GOLD ART DECO CARTIER LONDON CLASP, CIRCA 1925-30
Rectangular clutch bag, white and gold silk with Indian floral motif, Art Deco bow-tie clasp in silver by Cartier London with black enamel, the ends applied with a tubular rock crystal motif held by a white gold clasp set with old-cut diamonds, the central motif in white gold also set with old-cut diamonds. Silk lining inside. Inside there is a mirror.
signed 'CARTIER' (for the clasp) and 'MADE IN France' (for the bag) (on the inner lining)
16 x 24 cm
circa 1925-30
in Cartier box
Certificate of appraisal by Alain Cartier, expert CNE, Paris and LAPADA, London, dated 6 June 2024
During the first decade of the 20th century, the House of Cartier offered its customers precious accessories, notably handbags and purses with enamelled frames. The hiring of Jeanne Toussaint by Louis Cartier at the end of the First World War enabled Cartier to expand its production of handbags considerably in the 1920s, particularly the clutches that were in vogue. Cartier Paris catered to a growing American clientele living in France on a budget in the Art Deco years, the 'Les années folles', a clientele eagerly seeking fun, chic, creative and inexpensive items to wear during the day or at night in lively cafés and nightclubs. Cartier's clutches, some with little or no jewellery, met this demand. Many were offered by Cartier as prizes in sporting competitions that served to promote Cartier. The materials used were newly designed silk patterns, plain satins, antique brocades or leathers, crocodile, ostrich, suede, etc. The clasps varied and were made from a variety of materials. Clasps varied and were made of hard stones, or even natural materials such as horn, ivory and tortoise shell, and even precious and semi-precious stones, pearls and diamonds. Cartier London had its own designers and workshops and designed and made jewellery and accessories following the style established by Cartier Paris. The bow tie motif was very fashionable in the Belle Époque and Cartier created many dress ornaments and countless brooches using this motif. Some ideas never die and the bow tie motif was adapted by Cartier in the Art Deco style in the 1920s and 1930s on accessories as seen with this clasp.
At the buyer's request, we are happy to provide a general condition report for the lot described above. However, as we are not professional conservators or restorers, we strongly advise prospective buyers to carry out their own inspection or consult a specialist or conservator of their choice for a full professional assessment. Descriptions of the condition of objects in the catalogue or in any correspondence are given for guidance only and should not be regarded as a substitute for a first-hand valuation.
ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD 'AS IS' IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE TERMS AND CONDITIONS OF SALE PUBLISHED IN THE CATALOGUE
SILK CLUTCH BAG WITH CARTIER LONDON ART DECO ROCK CRYSTAL, DIAMOND, BLACK ENAMEL, SILVER, WHITE GOLD CLASP, CIRCA 1925-30
Rectangular clutch bag, the white and gold silk with an Indian floral motif, the Art Deco rotating silver bowtie shaped clasp from Cartier London enameled black, the ends applied with a tubular rock crystal motif held in place with a white gold staple set with old-mine cut diamonds, the white gold centre motif also set with old-mine cut diamonds. Silk lining inside. The interior with a mirror.
signed 'CARTIER' (for the clasp) and 'MADE IN FRANCE' (for the bag) (on the inside lining)
16 x 24 cm
circa 1925-30
in Cartier box
Certificate of expertise by Alain Cartier, expert CNE, Paris and LAPADA, London, dated June 6, 2024
n the first decade of the 20th century, the Maison Cartier offered its clientele precious accessories including handbags and purses with enameled frames. The hiring of Jeanne Toussaint by Louis Cartier at the end of World War I led to Cartier's expanding tremendously its handbag output in the 1920s especially clutch bags which were in fashion. Cartier Paris aimed at an increasing American clientele living inexpensively in France in the Art Deco years 'the Swinging Twenties', a clientele avidly seeking fun, chic, creative, and inexpensive items to wear in the day, or evening, in the bustling cafés and night clubs. Cartier's clutch bags, some with minimal or even no jewelry, answered this demand. Many were given out by Cartier as prizes in sports competitions which served as a medium for Cartier's promotion. Materials used included newly designed silk patterns, plain satins, antique brocade, or leather, crocodile, ostrich, suede etc. The clasps varied and were made of hardstones, or even natural materials like horn, ivory and tortoiseshell, and even precious and semiprecious stones, pearls and diamonds. Cartier London had its own designers and workshops and created and made jewellery and accessories following the style set by Cartier Paris. The bowknot motif was very much in vogue du ring the Belle Epoque and Cartier created many stomachers and countless brooches using that motif. Certain ideas never really die and the bowknot motif was adapted by Cartier in the Art Deco style in the 1920s and 30s onto accessories as we can see with this clasp.
Upon the buyer's request, we are pleased to provide a general condition report for the Lot described above. However, as we are not professional conservators or restorers, we strongly advise prospective buyers to conduct their own inspection or consult a specialist or restorer of their choice for a comprehensive professional assessment. Any condition descriptions provided in the catalogue or through any correspondence are for guidance only and should not be considered a substitute for a firsthand evaluation.
NOTWITHSTANDING THIS REPORT OR ANY DISCUSSIONS CONCERNING A LOT, ALL LOTS ARE OFFERED AND SOLD 'AS IS' IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE GENERAL TERMS AND CONDITIONS OF SALE PUBLISHED IN THE CATALOGUE.
See original version (French) Auto-translation. Refer to original language for legal validity.
Pictures credits: Contact organization
Fashion and leather goods
About the sale
Find similar lots for sale on Interencheres
See more lots for sale on Interencheres
Value:CHF 7,000
CHF 9,000
Live
06/19/2025
Offered by Piguet Hôtel des Ventes
Value:CHF 40,000
CHF 60,000
Live
06/19/2025
Offered by Piguet Hôtel des Ventes
Value:CHF 15,000
CHF 20,000
Live
06/19/2025
Offered by Piguet Hôtel des Ventes
Value:CHF 7,000
CHF 9,000
Live
06/19/2025
Offered by Piguet Hôtel des Ventes
Value:€7,000 - €8,000
Live
06/19/2025
Offered by TAJAN
Value:€4,000 - €6,000
Live
06/18/2025
Offered by TAJAN
Value:CHF 20,000
CHF 30,000
Live
06/19/2025
Offered by Piguet Hôtel des Ventes
Value:CHF 7,000
CHF 9,000
Live
06/19/2025
Offered by Piguet Hôtel des Ventes
Value:€2,500 - €3,000
Live
06/19/2025
Offered by TAJAN
Value:€12,000 - €15,000
Live
06/19/2025
Offered by MILLON RIVIERA
Value:€8,000 - €12,000
Live
06/18/2025
Offered by TAJAN
Value:CHF 15,000
CHF 20,000
Live
06/19/2025
Offered by Piguet Hôtel des Ventes
Value:€120 - €150
Live
06/21/2025
Offered by Militaria Auctions
Value:€250 - €300
Live
06/19/2025
Offered by Pierre Bergé & Associés
Value:€5,000 - €7,000
Live
06/21/2025
Offered by Louiza Auktion & Associés
Value:€200 - €300
Live
06/21/2025
Offered by Militaria Auctions
Value:€80 - €120
Live
06/21/2025
Offered by Militaria Auctions
Value:€50 - €80
Live
06/21/2025
Offered by Militaria Auctions
Value:€40 - €80
Live
06/21/2025
Offered by Militaria Auctions
Value:€80,000 - €120,000
Live
06/19/2025
Offered by VICHY ENCHERES
Value:€50 - €80
Live
06/21/2025
Offered by Militaria Auctions
Value:€200 - €300
Live
06/21/2025
Offered by Militaria Auctions
Value:€80 - €120
Live
06/21/2025
Offered by Militaria Auctions
Value:€100 - €200
Live
06/21/2025
Offered by Militaria Auctions
Value:€100 - €200
Live
06/21/2025
Offered by Militaria Auctions
Value:€100 - €200
Live
06/21/2025
Offered by Militaria Auctions
Value:€30 - €50
Live
06/21/2025
Offered by Militaria Auctions
Value:€200 - €300
Live
06/21/2025
Offered by Louiza Auktion & Associés
Value:€100 - €200
Live
06/21/2025
Offered by Militaria Auctions
Value:€60 - €100
Live
06/21/2025
Offered by Militaria Auctions